For some time now I have been considering creating a blog site where Dowelmax owners can interact with me, make comments and ask questions related to the uses and techniques for the Dowelmax system, and get the latest news on the projects and resources that I'm developing for Dowelmax.
Of equal importance is to be able to freely respond to what I perceive to be misinformation periodically advanced with respect to woodworking as it pertains to the Dowelmax system.
To provide a bit about my background outside of Dowelmax, I'm a retired professional engineer and while this does not directly pertain to Woodworking, it can be invaluable when its use is appropriate.
I have recently had the opportunity to witness a preview of a "comparative strength test" undertaken by Fine Woodworking, and I have some serious issues with the manner and context in which the various tests were undertaken. Once the magazine is released, we will take the liberty of compiling a critique to be published on this blog.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Ah, this will be a nice place to visit to talk about one of my favorite tools!
ReplyDeleteNot being a reader of FWW(I like WOOD),I don't know what they said,but I'd have to take issue with them. I love this tool! It's my go-to tool for joinery--easy to use and dead-on accurate. It's even a joy to look at. I marvel at its heft and workmanship. The guy at FWW must have been having a bad hair day
ReplyDelete1!
Hello Jim,
ReplyDeleteWould your product be suitable for making 1 3/4" interior doors? What length of dowel would be needed for optimal strength and would 3/8" diameter dowels be large enough?
I have a soon to be project for about 40 interior passageway doors and have been considering this type of joint to use. My design is going to be using flat jointed glued up double 4/4 pieces. Paneled design, and all solid wood construction. Stiles would be about 4 1/2" wide, and stile width will get wider from top to middle to bottom.
Would be interested to hear from you on the above questions. I do know of one door company that uses a long wood dowel put into the side of the top stiles into the rails for backup insurance on their joint construction, which I do not know of at this time but will find out.
Thanks,
Greg
Hi Greg: The answer to your first question is unquestionably - yes, and the reason I can say that is, I have just completed an entry door for my new home. The design has a top rail, two mid rails and a bottom rail, with a total of over 40 dowels. I also did a test on a 4 dowel joint of the same design. Michael and I set it up on my hydraulic test stand, he did the video as I increased the pressure. It did not just fail, it literally exploded at 2,000 lbs. per square inch. Incidently, we also tested a similar sized mortise and tenon at the same time and it also failed at 2,000 lbs. per square inch. You have my word that this is the only test that the Dowelmax did not out-perform the M & T set up.
ReplyDeleteAfter dry fitting (not using all the dowels) the door went together beautifully, and it would have been accepted at Fort Knox, it was that solid. One item that is slightly problematic, and I can't quite remember how I overcame it, but I know I did, was referencing the mid rails. You might need to design a simple distance gauge. One thing I do remember doing was clamping the whole assembly together without dowels, trimming the top and bottom, then working down for the dowels on the top rail, and up from the bottom for the bottom rail (I would not recommend this). We have access to 3 inch dowels, however I do suspect that it would be overkill. The other thing that Dowelmax can do, is a double or triple row of dowels, technically overkill, because the joints would then far exceed the strength of the wood. One further point, you definitely don't need 1/2 inch dowels with this close spaced system. Let me know if you have any further questions. I may have missed something.
Jim
Hi, Jim.
ReplyDeleteI'm posting from Ft. Mohave AZ USA where it's about 75 Deg. F.today. Hope you're keeping warm.
I do love the Dowelmax and I have a question or two concerning its use. I want to make a kitchen stool for my wife and I'm modifying a free chair plan that I saw on the net. I'll make the seven degree angle joint as pictured in your web sibe angle joint picture. What is the minimum width of the chair rail needed to achieve a double row of 3/8" dowlels? To practice, I used an old piece of two by four (we're not metric down here yet) planed to 1 1/4" when practising this a.m., but that seens kinda chunky. I'd also like to have a slight reveal where the rail meets the leg. I had a 6"x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece of hardwood for the leg. I sweated blood for the longest time trying for a dowelmax configuration that allowed for the two double rows of dowel holes to line up. Any thoughts?
Greg, in my opinion, this is one application where Dowelmax would not be ideal. Certainly, the joints would be strong. If you had a couple doors to do, it would be great. But 40!!?? It will take forever. I'd recommend tongue & groove on the table saw. Much more efficient, production-wise.
ReplyDeleteGreat to see this blog. I've added it as a link to my own blog. http://pullings.blogspot.com/
ReplyDeleteHi there at Ft. Mohave, I'm so sorry I have not responded sooner, but I'm on vacation and have not been checking my blog, the way I should be. Regarding your question about the double row: I did a fairly elaborate chair, rails angled at 6 degrees, it turned out to be total overkill, so I plugged the holes with dowels and redesigned the configuration to four dowels in-line, it was perfect but needed a rail width 2 3/4" deep, but that looked o.k.
ReplyDeleteI've done some experimentation with various angle joints on edge all very successful, and even did one with through dowels which turned out to be extremely strong, and visually pleasing.
One disadvantage I did find is that with the rail you are using the apex ??? for reference, so at the front end of the rail you are referencing from the outside, but at the rear end, since the apex is inside you are referencing from the inside, sounds complicated but not so once you get set up.
Regarding your question about the width for a double row you need 1 1/2" stock for double or triple row, however with the triple row you have to stagger the dowels to prevent fowling.
Something else to remember for the angled system previously referred to, you can use spacers both between the guide block and the angle clamp bracket, or between the workpiece and the accessory - gives you a lot of leeway.
Hope this helps, and don't hesitate to contact me for any additional info.
Regards, Jim.
Hello Jim
ReplyDeleteI would like to try the dowelmax. I have made a number of projects using dowels but alignment was always an issue...close but no cigar. I live in Victoria, BC. What is the easiest way to purchase dowelmax? Also, are the dowels a generic size?
Dowelmax looks like the kind of tool I want in my toolbox.
Well done,
Rick G.
My brother introduced me to Dowelmax 2 years ago and as an inventor and manufacturer or a handmade wooden training toy that requires 8 dowels or 16 holes drilled precisely per toy, the Dowelmax has been a time saver. I really don't know what I'll do without it. One of the best woodworking tool ever!
ReplyDeleteLeonard
www.footworker.ca
Jim,
ReplyDeleteI need to make a 5 degree angle joint similar to the Face Type Joint described in Fig 7A of your instruction manual. The Dowelmax website shows a chair leg to rail configuration, so it looks possible. Do I need to make up wedges to hold one of the pieces at the desired angle?
Hi Paul,
ReplyDeleteThe answer is no. The accessory is designed to be clamped directly to the work piece. Bear in mind though, when you do the rear joint, you'll be referencing from the inside face rather than the outside face as normal. This may require a very minor adjustment to the length of the rail running transversely at the back of the chair. If I can be of any further assistance, please contact me through the dowelmax website www.dowelmax.com. Thanks, Jim